Scotland Never Disappoints

Scotland is the place to come to nurse disappointment and bruised spirits! It never disappoints her visitors. This is the month of Highland Games, piping, cattle shows, and purple and white heather. I have been busy taking in some of festivities and touring around Aberdeen. I have spent the last few days on my own, as Gretchen has gone to Grantown-on-Spey to greet her family and there is plenty to do in and around Aberdeen.

My first day I grabbed my hiking boots and a double decker bus and headed out to the small coastal community of Stonehaven which is famous for its castle - Dunnottar Castle. The site of the castle has been inhabited since Pictish times (about 5000BC to 700AD) and has been visitied by William Wallace, Mary Queen of Scots and King Charles II. It has been defended against Viking invasion and was where 122 men and 45 women were imprisoned in a vault for refusing to acknowledge the King's supremacy in spirital matters (1685). It now lies in ruins on the edge of a cliff overlooking the sea.

I approached the castle along a the 3.6km coastal path and got some great shots. It was an easy 3.6kms and it was nice to stretch my legs with some walking again after a week of 'rest'. I was getting a bit ansy and needing a walk. It does become a habit quite quickly and I was missing the daily routine of putting on the boots and going. As you can see, you walk quite close the the edge. Well, I manage to get quite close to the edge. It was probably a good thing that Gretchen wasn't there. She gets a wee bit uneasy and has scolded me for getting too close in the past. After my tour of the castle, I hiked back and visited the famous Aunt Betty's, a little ice cream shop in the town. Oh my, I think it rivals Dutch Dreams! I thought I deserved a 'small' treat after my walk.

My second day was spent in Aberdeen walking a loop through Old Aberdeen, along the Esplande (I'm thinking they had the name first before we did in Toronto), to Footdee (pronouced Fitdee - don't ask), and then back up King Street. Old Aberdeen is home to King's College and St. Machar's Cathedral. King's College was founded in 1495 by the Bishop of Aberdeen in order cure ignorance within the parish. The college is now home to a sports centre, Zoology building, Arts Lecture Theatre, Film Studies, and of course Divinity and Relgious studies in the main King's College Building (the one with the crown).

My third day was a real treat. I headed out on another double decker bus to Cruden's Bay, a little community just north of Aberdeen. It has a gorgeous beach and the day was absolutely fantastic! I made my way to a spot on the beach and had a 'wee' lunch before heading out on the real purpose for my visit to Cruden's Bay - Slains Castle. Slains is a deserted castle perched on the edge of a cliff overlooking the sea. I really mean deserted. It is privately owned and was lived in for almost 300 years up to the early 1900's, when it was sold and left abandoned. It is located on private property so it takes a bit to actually get into the castle. Thank goodness for 'right of passage' laws in Scotland - you have a legal right to walk onto someone's private property as long as you respect it. So, there were moments during my visit when I was the only person near and walking around the ruins of this castle! What a treat!

Slains Castle is quite notorious in Aberdeenshire and Scotland. It was visited by Bram Stoker and is said to be the inspiration for the setting of, that's right, Dracula and I can understand why. I was there in the daylight and had moments that sent shivers up and down my spine. I can imagine Stoker standing in front of one of the castle's enormous windows overlooking the sea on a dark and stormy night and creating the sinister Dracula. The sound of waves crashing against the shoreline as electrical, dark, billowing storm clouds rush in toward the shoreline through the inky darkness of night, wind blowing through the hollows of the castle would send anyone's imagination into its darkest corners. The perfect setting for Dracula!

Scotland never disappoints even for the likes of Bram Stoker! Her history, landscape, and the people who live here provide fodder for the soul and the imagination. I have to say it is one of my favourite places in the world! However, as you can see I have now got a way of uploading pictures to my blog and will be starting from the beginning very soon. It may not be until I get back home where I can sit down in front of my computer without the pull of stone circles and castles around me. If you're interested, continue to check back periodically as I will be posting a complete photo journal of my trip this summer over time.

Hope everyone is having a great summer and I will see you soon!

Tammy

The Land of Kilts

Hello Everyone,

Well, I am now in Scotland and visiting my friend Gretchen. I am gradually adjusting to the temperature as I am going from 35-40 degree weather with constant sunshine to gray, overcast and about 20 degrees. Although the sun is peeking through the clouds right now. I am happy to be here and Gretchen has been so good to me. She has been taking care of me - Florence Nightengaling my ass, which is probably a good thing.

I have downloaded my 1000 pictures onto Gretchen's computer and will take the next couple of days to sift through them and start a bit of a photo journal on the blog. I am excited about having some time to sit down and gather my thoughts a bit and perhaps get them down on 'paper'. So, watch for upcoming posts with pictures (hopefully). I will have more of an opportunity to really write about the Camino and my experiences.

Hope all is well with everyone.

Tammy

A Decision

Hello again everyone! I know, two blogs back to back. Anyway, I am back in Burgos after spending two days in Santo Domingo and I have come a decision. I think it has been one of the hardest I have had to make in a long time and I went back and forth between my options many, many, many times. I have decided to leave the Camino for now. The foot is still very tender and after trying on my boots today, I know I would not be able to ´comfortably´walk 25km everyday for the next 2 weeks. So, I will be making my way to Madrid and then Aberdeen to nurse my bruised spirits. Here´s hoping that Aberdeen has enough alcohol to assist in that nursing ;).

I will be spending tomorrow in Burgos and then in Madrid from Wednesday to Saturday. I will fly to Aberdeen on Saturday. Before leaving Burgos on Wednesday, I will be making my peace with my Camino. As part of the Camino, many people bring a stone from home to leave on the Cruz de Ferro, one of the highest points of the Camino. It is a token of love and blessing and a symbol, for some, of leaving all that you carried with you on the Camino. As I won´t make it to the Cruz de Ferro this time, I am going to find myself a quiet cafe, write a letter to the Camino and then walk to the outskirts of Burgos to find a quiet and safe place to leave my stone and letter. It will be my Cruz de Ferro this time. Here´s hoping that it will still be there when I return to finish the Camino at some other point in the future.

I will continue to blog. I am sure there will be just as many experiences to share away from the Camino. Although it will be a sad parting, I am looking forward to my time in Madrid and Scotland. Gretchen and her family have been so understanding and I am more than willing to earn my keep for their open arms and welcome. Thanks to everyone for your kind words and support. It has helped make this decision much more bearable.

Until next time...

Tammy

Mixed Feelings

Hello Everyone,

Thanks to those who have posted comments on the blog and for your continuous well wishes and thoughts. I am currently in the small monastic village of Santo Domingo. The village is famous for its monastary as it is one of the few in Spain where all the services are done in Gregorian Chanting by the monks. It was founded in 954 and much of the way the service is conducted has not changed.

Although I have been enjoying this tiny town and its magic, I am here with a bit of a heavy heart. The three days of walking prior to reaching here have not been good. I have walked through some excruciating pain in my left foot and hip. By the end of the day for the last three days I have literally limped and hobbled into the village where I was staying. The only thing that kept me going through tears of absolute frustration and disappointment has been a song which I have hummed all the way into the village, much to the dismay of any travel companions that have walked with me along the way. It especially kept me going for an extra 3.9km because I did not want to pay the 40 euros it would have cost me to take a taxi to the next village. 40 euros for 4km! I told the guy forget it, aggressively plopped my Tilley hat on my head, hoisted my backpack onto my back, and started walking.

Anyway, the song came from Tom and James, a young dynamic duo walking the Camino together. They are from Bath (and it must be said with a posh English accent). Tom is very musical and he has carried a ukelele with him all the way. He has been teaching James how to play it as they walk. With determination, James has learned 4 songs in only 300km. Well done! Anyway, the song is I´m Yours by Jason Mraz. We travelled together for about 3 days. At the end of the day the ukelele and, if there was a guitar at the albergue, would come out and the theme song would be played. If you haven´t heard it, it is actually quite a catchy little tune and pretty good for walking to. Thank you Tom and James (Jerry ;). Without the tune, I probably wouldn´t have made it as far as I did. It will definitely be going on the mp3 player when I get home.

Now I am sitting in a hostal in Santo Domingo, attending Matins, Loudes, Mass, Vespers, and Completos, in hopes that I can make a decision of what to do. I will keep you posted.

But, I did promise some highlights. There are so many, it is hard to choose.

1) The night in Granon. This again is a tiny village where the church is the centre of life in town. Actually, the first thing you usually see before the actual village in Spain, is the steeple and church bells. Usually what you hear as well. Anyway, they have converted the bell tower of this old church built in the 12th century into a sleeping area for pilgrims. It is very different than the other albergues because they have a policy of ¨Give what you can, take what you need.¨ All based on the honour system. We don´t see that too often anymore. We all prepared and shared a common meal and slept on the floor pretty much right under the bells of the church. I forgot about it and literally jumped while playing a game of cards with Tom and James. Least to say they got quite the giggle fit out of it. We even had the chance to go up into the bell tower and I got some pretty good photos, which will go up as soon as I can get my hands on a card reader.

2) Staying in Azofra. All I have to say is cold pool for your feet and two beds to a room and anyone who has walked any distance on the Camino can appreciate these things. There is nothing like sticking your feet into ice cold water after they have heated up in your boots, double layered socks and walked about 25km. Oh the things you come to appreciate! The ice water is shocking at first, but then euphoria takes over and you never want to get out. As for the two beds per room, well, after sleeping with up to 100 in a room, you and one other is heavenly!

3) Spaghetti! Oh the joy a huge plate of pasta can bring to someone at the end of a long day of walking. One, maybe two plates for me, but 6 for Tom and James. I cooked for the two of them, with the understanding that they would clean up, for a couple of the nights we stayed in the same place. Anyway, they insisted on cooking two bags of pasta even though there were only the three of us. I have to say, I was mightly impressed to see these two pack away 6 plates and finish the pot off! I actually only meant they had to clean up the dishes!

4) A bath! Yes, I have taken my first bath in Santo Domingo. No worries, quick showers have been had although there is something to be said about the smell of pilgrims. As Lorna would say ¨we all smell like the underarm of a goat.¨ We don´t notice it, but I think a woman moved away from me the other day because of my smell. I suppose it is very distinct, as most of us haven´t really been scrubbed from head to toe and our clothes are handwashed. Certainly not as clean as having them machine washed. Anyway, as soon as my body hit that bath, everything else disappeared. Glorious!

5) My fellow pilgrims. I have to say, with a few exceptions, they have restored my faith in humanity. Goodness and kindness exists. I have seen so many random acts of kindness as I have walked. From someone carrying her backpack and one other girl´s backpack because she was injured, to giving up a plate of food to someone who hasn´t had a meal all day, to offering a shoulder to a complete stranger as they emotionally break down on the path. It´s out there and it shouldn´t be so hard to find on a daily basis.

6) The monks of Santo Domingo. If you have ever heard magic of Gregorian chanting on CD, you should hear it in real life in a church that was acoustically built for it before the age of computers and modern machinery. There is no need for microphones as the harmonized voices of the monks, dressed in black habits with hoods, is carried to the back of the church with no effort. I am not an overly religious person, but there is something beyond this realm on earth that happens when these men, devoted passionately to their beliefs, come together and sing to the praises of God. It is very moving and I am glad this is where I have come to make a decision.

Anyway, more will come as my pictures go up. I will definitely keep everyone posted on my status and the blog will continue wherever my arrows point to next. As so many people have said, the Camino is not just Santiago, it continues everyday no matter where you end. The distance is just a number. It´s really the experiences you take away with you.

You are in my thoughts always.

Tammy

It´s Been a Couple of Days

Well, my stay in Estella was a good decision. The rest was much needed. I have to admit though, it was strange not to be leaving with the other pilgrims. Estella was a beautiful little town. I spent the morning in the town square sitting on a bench and writing in my journal. I had to be out of the albergue at 7am until about noon. I then went off to find cafe con leche and a pan napoelian - basically pan chocolate! It has become a staple in the morning for me. I start off between 6:00am and 7:00am every morning. The first village I get to, I stop for my cafe and pan. It has become part of my pilgrimage.

So a few interesting anecdotes to tell you about.

1) While staying in Estella, I was able to do a lot of people watching. There is a common kitchen and it is very interesting to watch what people make for dinner and the process involved. Anyway, I had made myself some pasta and was observing two young guys at the other end of the table. I casually glanced to see what they were making and did a double take. The one guy was shredding cabbage, the other was cutting up tomato. Yes folks, a cabbage salad. I´m thinking it may have been the first time they were cooking for themselves. Anyway, they ate it all the same.

2) They say three things will happen on the Camino. First, you will cry. Second, you will meet your boundaries. Third, you will find someone you dislike. All three have happened. I cried and met my boundaries on the way into Estella. Hence the day off. I met the person I dislike in Estella. He is an older man, in his 60s. Short, stocky fellow that always seems to be a bit nervous. He was in the bunk beside me. Anyway, the rules of the albergues are basically quiet after 10:00pm and usually until about 6:00am. It varies. Anyway, I noticed that he would sleep all day and yell at people to shut up even in the middle of the day so that his sleep would not be disturbed. Very rude, as many tired pilgrims come in from the heat of the day (35 degrees with no shade yesterday) and want to unpack their ´rucksacks´ and shower. You then go into the centre courtyards and chat with your fellow travellers. Anyway, several people were getting upset with him and there were several conflicts along the way. I then saw him again in Los Arcos, again in the bunk just across from me and again the same situation - telling people to shut up. I was then washing my clothes and he decided to give me his two cents worth on what I was carrying with me. I almost lost it by that point in time. By the way, he got up at 3:00am that morning and was very noisy leaving the albergue and waking his fellow pilgrims who were not suppose to be for at least another 2 hours. Yes, a lesson in patience and just letting it go. There are things to be said about sharing small quaters with strangers on the same path, but with different purposes and ways of doing things.

3) Pilgrims stories. There are as many purposes and ways of doing the Camino as there are people doing it. I have heard several different stories. One gentleman is doing it with his father´s spirit. He was suppose to do the Camino with his father, but his father died just before leaving. Yes, a few tears were shed. Another Korean fellow is doing it because he is being punished by his father. His father has sent him on the Camino for figure things out. He must bring his pilgrims credentials- which is stamped everytime you stay somewhere, back to his father as proof that he has taken the time to think about his life. Many are just wanting to take time out from the craziness of life. However, the Camino has a craziness of its own. The race continues and I have sent people on their way.

My longest day has been from Los Arcos to Logrono. I walked 30km that day and even in the high heat of the day. I decided never to do that again. Now, I stop in the closest village when I am coming upon midday. It is crazy to walk in the heat and the sun is intense. There has been very little shade. I walked onto Logrono because I didn´t want to sleep in a 3 tiered bunk bed on the top bunk. Yes three bunk beds stacked on top of each other! Crazy! Last night I stayed in a lovely little albergue in Ventosa and today I only walked 17km to Azofra. I will be walking to Granon tomorrow to hopefully sleep in the attic of an old church! I hear it is quite the experience. Anyway, there is so much to tell. I will go through my journal tonight and pull out some other highlights to share with you in the next post.

Hope everyone is doing well. Until next time.

Tammy

P.S. Still not pictures. It may have to wait until I can download them in Scotland. I will keep trying.

Estella

Well, I am now in Estella, about two days walk from Pamplona. It is a beautiful small city and the original village was founded in 1092. It has a current population of about 15,000 people. I have to admit that arriving in Estella was a challenge. I woke up in the morning in a good mood, but as yet another steep "hill" loomed in front of me, that mood deteriorated. However, after a stop in Cirauqui to refuel, my mood lifted and I made it here. There were times throughout the day I just wanted to throw in the towel, head up to Scotland and then home to my apartment, comfy bed and routine day.

After arriving at the albergue, I collapsed onto my bunk for about 30 minutes, took a shower and then ventured out to find something to eat. On my way, I came across the Red Cross and decided to stop in to have some toes looked at. They weren't looking all that good. Thank you for Red Cross!! The nurse was wonderful and I got some much needed personal care. I almost cried! Not only did she fix up my toes, but she also massaged my feet, ankles and legs. A sigh of relieve escaped my lips and I was able to face the rest of the evening and had the best sleep in 6 days!

That said, I have decided to have a one day rest in Estella. My knees are feeling the ups and downs of the walk and I have to go back to the Red Cross today to have the toes looked at. I spent my morning from 7am on in the town square watching and listening to the sounds of the town coming alive slowly. Everything in Spain takes its time. I enjoyed a cup of coffee and a pan chocolate. This afternoon, I will rest in the back garden of the albergue and perhaps take in some of the sites of this town. I am told there is a gorgeous church called San Miguel.

This rest has also afforded me some time to reflect. I really wanted this trip to be about slowing down. I realized that if anything, I have been caught up in the "race" of the Camino. I have been rushing through the last 6 days with only Santiago in mind and needing to walk the designated amount of kilometres. I feel I have not taken in what is around me, have felt I could not take it in, and have exhausted myself to the point of not enjoying it. So, I have decided to slow down. I have about 3 and half weeks left and will end up where I end up. If that is in Santiago, then so be it. If not, then so be it. I don't want to be in the same frame of mind and going the same pace I do for 10 months of the year. That would defeat the purpose of this trip.

Anyway, all is well otherwise. I am going to make my way to the Red Cross and then do some laundry at the albergue. I think there may even be a nap in store for today. Some of the ambitious pilgrims were up at 4am this morning to be on the road early!

Hasta luego,
Tammy

Pamplona

Well, I have made to Pamplona and beyond. I arrived in Pamplona on July 7th and managed to secure a place on the floor in a lovely German Albergue. However, before bunking down, one of the guys in the room offered to take the floor instead so I ended up with a bed after all. It was very nice of him and this seems to be the common practice along the Camino.


Pamplona was very interesting! It was San Fermin - the Running of the Bulls festival and people were absolutely shattered. They party and drink all night and believe me they looked worse off than I did. However, it was a very festive feeling throughout the city and lots to see and do. The city itself is gorgeous and everyone was dressed in red and white for the festival. The following morning after my arrival, I ventured out to watch the running of the bulls. Can I just say - SUICIDE! Once in the path of the bulls, there is no place to go. You have to run right into the bull ring and then you are stuck in there with a young bull and hundreds of others trying to avoid being butted. I don't know who or what is more dangerous, the people trying to get away from the bull or the bull itself. No wonder they party and drink all night before hand. That is the only way to gain and keep the courage to do this.

After the watching this spectacle, I headed out of town into the quiet countryside again. It was a good day's walk with lots of uphill. I walked through a field of wind turbines and up a huge "hill" where I was greeted by an iron representation of modern and medieval pilgrims. There was also a fantastic view back over Pamplona. I only wish I could share it with you, however, I have yet to find a place that will put my pictures onto a disc or let me attach my camera. I will keep searching.

I ended up staying in a tiny hill town called Obanos, where apparently the nobleman of Navarre met in the 14th century to try to limit the power of the king. It was a quiet place and the albergue was lovely with a beautiful back garden. I was exhausted by in good spirits. I had dinner with the Spanish couple I had stayed with in St. Jean, Karissa from L.A. and a Gregory from Germany. Love the fact that wine is included in our dinner!