Mixed Feelings

Hello Everyone,

Thanks to those who have posted comments on the blog and for your continuous well wishes and thoughts. I am currently in the small monastic village of Santo Domingo. The village is famous for its monastary as it is one of the few in Spain where all the services are done in Gregorian Chanting by the monks. It was founded in 954 and much of the way the service is conducted has not changed.

Although I have been enjoying this tiny town and its magic, I am here with a bit of a heavy heart. The three days of walking prior to reaching here have not been good. I have walked through some excruciating pain in my left foot and hip. By the end of the day for the last three days I have literally limped and hobbled into the village where I was staying. The only thing that kept me going through tears of absolute frustration and disappointment has been a song which I have hummed all the way into the village, much to the dismay of any travel companions that have walked with me along the way. It especially kept me going for an extra 3.9km because I did not want to pay the 40 euros it would have cost me to take a taxi to the next village. 40 euros for 4km! I told the guy forget it, aggressively plopped my Tilley hat on my head, hoisted my backpack onto my back, and started walking.

Anyway, the song came from Tom and James, a young dynamic duo walking the Camino together. They are from Bath (and it must be said with a posh English accent). Tom is very musical and he has carried a ukelele with him all the way. He has been teaching James how to play it as they walk. With determination, James has learned 4 songs in only 300km. Well done! Anyway, the song is I´m Yours by Jason Mraz. We travelled together for about 3 days. At the end of the day the ukelele and, if there was a guitar at the albergue, would come out and the theme song would be played. If you haven´t heard it, it is actually quite a catchy little tune and pretty good for walking to. Thank you Tom and James (Jerry ;). Without the tune, I probably wouldn´t have made it as far as I did. It will definitely be going on the mp3 player when I get home.

Now I am sitting in a hostal in Santo Domingo, attending Matins, Loudes, Mass, Vespers, and Completos, in hopes that I can make a decision of what to do. I will keep you posted.

But, I did promise some highlights. There are so many, it is hard to choose.

1) The night in Granon. This again is a tiny village where the church is the centre of life in town. Actually, the first thing you usually see before the actual village in Spain, is the steeple and church bells. Usually what you hear as well. Anyway, they have converted the bell tower of this old church built in the 12th century into a sleeping area for pilgrims. It is very different than the other albergues because they have a policy of ¨Give what you can, take what you need.¨ All based on the honour system. We don´t see that too often anymore. We all prepared and shared a common meal and slept on the floor pretty much right under the bells of the church. I forgot about it and literally jumped while playing a game of cards with Tom and James. Least to say they got quite the giggle fit out of it. We even had the chance to go up into the bell tower and I got some pretty good photos, which will go up as soon as I can get my hands on a card reader.

2) Staying in Azofra. All I have to say is cold pool for your feet and two beds to a room and anyone who has walked any distance on the Camino can appreciate these things. There is nothing like sticking your feet into ice cold water after they have heated up in your boots, double layered socks and walked about 25km. Oh the things you come to appreciate! The ice water is shocking at first, but then euphoria takes over and you never want to get out. As for the two beds per room, well, after sleeping with up to 100 in a room, you and one other is heavenly!

3) Spaghetti! Oh the joy a huge plate of pasta can bring to someone at the end of a long day of walking. One, maybe two plates for me, but 6 for Tom and James. I cooked for the two of them, with the understanding that they would clean up, for a couple of the nights we stayed in the same place. Anyway, they insisted on cooking two bags of pasta even though there were only the three of us. I have to say, I was mightly impressed to see these two pack away 6 plates and finish the pot off! I actually only meant they had to clean up the dishes!

4) A bath! Yes, I have taken my first bath in Santo Domingo. No worries, quick showers have been had although there is something to be said about the smell of pilgrims. As Lorna would say ¨we all smell like the underarm of a goat.¨ We don´t notice it, but I think a woman moved away from me the other day because of my smell. I suppose it is very distinct, as most of us haven´t really been scrubbed from head to toe and our clothes are handwashed. Certainly not as clean as having them machine washed. Anyway, as soon as my body hit that bath, everything else disappeared. Glorious!

5) My fellow pilgrims. I have to say, with a few exceptions, they have restored my faith in humanity. Goodness and kindness exists. I have seen so many random acts of kindness as I have walked. From someone carrying her backpack and one other girl´s backpack because she was injured, to giving up a plate of food to someone who hasn´t had a meal all day, to offering a shoulder to a complete stranger as they emotionally break down on the path. It´s out there and it shouldn´t be so hard to find on a daily basis.

6) The monks of Santo Domingo. If you have ever heard magic of Gregorian chanting on CD, you should hear it in real life in a church that was acoustically built for it before the age of computers and modern machinery. There is no need for microphones as the harmonized voices of the monks, dressed in black habits with hoods, is carried to the back of the church with no effort. I am not an overly religious person, but there is something beyond this realm on earth that happens when these men, devoted passionately to their beliefs, come together and sing to the praises of God. It is very moving and I am glad this is where I have come to make a decision.

Anyway, more will come as my pictures go up. I will definitely keep everyone posted on my status and the blog will continue wherever my arrows point to next. As so many people have said, the Camino is not just Santiago, it continues everyday no matter where you end. The distance is just a number. It´s really the experiences you take away with you.

You are in my thoughts always.

Tammy